Just received the greatest honor of my life: my first invite into THE EDDIE!!!! Words cannot express my gratitude towards the Aikau Family, my heroes who voted me in, my family, friends, and all of you out there who continue to inspire me. Special thanks to this man Dave Wassel for being the best second brother and mentor I could ask for.
Been on a small hiatus. Got a sore ankle so I’m nursing it back to fightin shape. What that has to do with my fingers not working, I have no idea. So… in the meantime check out this interview the boyz at Volcom Australia hooked up. Cheers boys..
There is nothing better than being out at perfect 6 to 10 ft backdoor and pipe with three guys out for 30 minutes. Great day for us yesterday with the bodyglove team (Jamie o’brien, Anthony Walsh, Cheyne mags, and myself). We are in the top three going into day two which by the looks of things out my window, will most likely be today. Thanks DaHui and Bodyglove.
The other night I went over to the Billabong house in Hawaii to see my good friend Danny. While having a delicious Primo beer and catching up on good times, Enich(one of the main heads at Billabong) hands me a rolled up poster. I ask him “what is this?”, and he replies “Gerry Lopez wanted me to personally hand deliver this signed pipe masters poster by him.”I was baffled to say the least. It turns out that Gerry was watching earlier that day when I paddled out alone at OTW during the Pipe Masters. I then proceeded to eat shit on a drop, break my board, and get washed to the beach. Somehow my leash had gone through my broken board like a piece of floss(see picture) . I tried for 15 minutes to get it out on the beach, but couldn’t. It’s still in there now. Baffled by eating shit, breaking my board, and then seeing something I’d never seen with my leash…… I walked back to the Volcom house with my tail between my legs and scratching my head. Apparently, Gerry had never seen something like that before either and told the Billabong guys that I deserved his signed poster and to make sure to get it to me. So, to Gerry, thank you for supporting my senseless ways and turning a not-so-fun situation into one of the coolest moments of my life. The poster is already on my wall………
I just received a phone call from my good friend, and hellman, Dave Wassel(Eddie invitee) saying: “Congrats, you’re the fifth alternate for The Eddie this year!” I almost fell over and honestly didn’t believe him. For me, there is no greater honor in the surfing world than to be associated with The Eddie. There are so many incredible big-wave athletes going for it these days. I am extremely humbled and honored to have my name next to such great talents. Thank you so much to the Aikau Family, Quiksilver, and everyone who voted. This truly is a dream come true. I wish all the invitees the best of luck, and can’t wait to watch you guys and hopefully mix it up with you in the world’s greatest arena!