
The other night I went over to the Billabong house in Hawaii to see my good friend Danny. While having a delicious Primo beer and catching up on good times, Enich(one of the main heads at Billabong) hands me a rolled up poster. I ask him “what is this?”, and he replies “Gerry Lopez wanted me to personally hand deliver this signed pipe masters poster by him.”I was baffled to say the least. It turns out that Gerry was watching earlier that day when I paddled out alone at OTW during the Pipe Masters. I then proceeded to eat shit on a drop, break my board, and get washed to the beach. Somehow my leash had gone through my broken board like a piece of floss(see picture) . I tried for 15 minutes to get it out on the beach, but couldn’t. It’s still in there now. Baffled by eating shit, breaking my board, and then seeing something I’d never seen with my leash…… I walked back to the Volcom house with my tail between my legs and scratching my head. Apparently, Gerry had never seen something like that before either and told the Billabong guys that I deserved his signed poster and to make sure to get it to me. So, to Gerry, thank you for supporting my senseless ways and turning a not-so-fun situation into one of the coolest moments of my life. The poster is already on my wall………