Tai Vandyke and I decided to build our first bed frame for my bed. To be honest, Tai was the main builder. You know when you see a construction site and there’s one guy working and everyone else watching? I was the guy watching haha. Once the frame was built we had to lift it up and over the second floor balcony and into my room. Now I have the world’s best bedroom view from 4 feet higher. Owwwwwwww Thanks Tai!
“End of the Rodeo” part 1 of 2.. Hours before I jumped on the plane to chase one of the biggest swells in Tahiti in recent years I got to hang out and teach some kids with special needs how to surf. It’s always humbling to get to do these types of things. Be thankful everyday and live life to the fullest!
Many thanks goes to Raimana for his hospitality and good vibes. It can’t be said enough times. THANK YOU BROTHER! Check back for Part 1 of 2 soon…
I can’t really think of anything much better than seeing your friends doing great things. Two of my friends this month, Reef Mcintosh and Dane Gudauskas, are gracing the covers of Transworld Surf and Surfing Mags.
Both of these guys are some of the hardest working dudes in the surf industry. I was lucky enough to be hanging out with Reef and be able to watch his cover wave in person at Cloudbreak, Fiji. His wave was a closeout. Everybody out there looked at that wave and so no. Reef saw an opportunity with photographer Daniel Russo down the line and said yes please! You could here people screaming at Reef not to go. But that’s just him. Time and time again you find Reef going when no one else wants to, especially if there’s an opportunity of a photo. That’s just crazy and not right for most people ahaha. Unfortunately, Reef got eaten alive and his board nailed his leg resulting in 7 stitches and the end of the his trip. For everyone out there, if you want to get the cover from one of the craziest sessions ever, take a page from Reef’s book if you have big enough balls!
Now, I have known Dane Gudauskas since I was 12 years old from competing every weekend at NSSA’s. I absolutely hated heats with Dane because he was a freaking animal and would be on you like white on rice until the bitter end. Dane became a NSSA National Champion before transitioning into his professional career on the WQS. Unlike his brothers, Dane ended up walking away from a dream of the WCT to go search for himself and perfect waves. Obviously, Dane made the right choice from the look of his cover at Puerto. Oh, and he is currently rocking a throwback haircut in honor of George Greenough that is the best thing out there right now. Congratulations boyzzzzzzzz.
This heat took place the year I was born. It’s still unreal and they’re still two of the all time greats… Enjoy..
Went to Tasmania to surf with Marty Paridisis and things didn’t go as planned. It was still a great time. Thanks for the hospitality Marty and I can’t wait to come back.